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Rolex Bracelets Ultimate Guide

by Andy Jones on Dec 09, 2024

Rolex Bracelets Ultimate Guide

Very few brands possess the same prestige and recognition as Rolex. Rolex watches are celebrated worldwide for their design, craftsmanship, elegance, quality, and precision. For those immersed in the luxury Swiss watch industry, Rolex has long commanded admiration and achieved the highest respect. Rolex watches epitomize excellence in watchmaking, from their precision-crafted movements to their timeless designs. While the dials and movements often steal the spotlight, one element that deserves equal recognition is the bracelet.

Rolex bracelets are a unique blend of comfort, innovation, and design. More than just functional, they serve as purely aesthetic works of art. These bracelets are inseparable from the Rolex timepiece, embodying practicality and purpose. Understanding the different types of Rolex bracelets is essential for watch enthusiasts, luxury collectors, and fashion bloggers seeking to elevate their content. From iconic bracelet designs to their unique characteristics and the intricate craftsmanship behind them, this comprehensive breakdown will help you appreciate the finer details of these legendary bands. At ElegantSwiss, we offer pre-owned luxury Swiss watches, including Rolex, allowing collectors and enthusiasts to acquire these remarkable watches with quality assurance.

The Rolex Oyster Bracelet

The Oyster bracelet is undoubtedly the most iconic of all Rolex bracelets. Introduced in the 1930s, it is celebrated for its robustness and clean design. Commonly associated with Rolex's sports watches, such as the Submariner, GMT-Master, and Daytona, the Oyster bracelet symbolizes the highest order's strength, durability, and stability.

The Oyster bracelet features a three-piece flat link design, with broad, flat center links flanked by smaller, polished links. This design strikes the perfect balance between strength and simplicity, making it ideal for both professional use and rugged adventures.

Evolution of Oyster Bracelet Links

Over the decades, Rolex has fine-tuned the Oyster bracelet, introducing various updates to improve durability and comfort. Here's a look at the key milestones:

Oyster Bracelet Code

Oyster Link Type

Bracelet End Link Width

Introduction Year

6635/6636

Riveted and expandable links

19 mm / 20 mm

1954

7205/7206

Riveted

19 mm / 20 mm

1954

7835/7836

Folded

19 mm / 20 mm

1967

9315

Folded with Diver Clasp

20 mm

1969

9316

Folded with Diver Clasp

20 mm (Sea-Dweller)

1969

78350/78360

Solid

19 mm / 20 mm

1975

93150

Solid (w/ Diver Clasp)

20 mm

1975

93160

Solid (w/ Diver Clasp)

20 mm

1978

As you can see, the Oyster bracelet transitioned from riveted to folded and eventually solid links, enhancing its durability and functionality with each iteration. The bracelet evolved to meet the growing demands of Rolex's wearers, offering the ideal balance of form and function.

Oyster Bracelet Codes and Materials

Oyster Bracelet Code

Bracelet End Link Width

Rolex Watch Model

70130 13mm Oyster Perpetual 26
70160 16mm Oyster Perpetual 31
70190 19mm Oyster Perpetual 34
70200 20mm Oyster Perpetual 36
70400 20mm Oyster Perpetual 39
72130-72131-72133-74138-74139 13mm Lady-Datejust 26
72340-72341-72343 14mm Lady-Datejust 28
72160-72161-72163 16mm Datejust 31
73168 16mm Datejust 31
72190 19mm Oyster Perpetual Date 34
72600- 72601 – 72603 20mm Datejust 36
72801-72803-72800 20mm Datejust 36
72210 - 72213 21mm

Datejust II

72610-72611

21mm

Datejust 41

73205-73208-73209

20mm

Day-Date 36

73605 

20mm

Day-Date 36

72415-72418-72419-72223-72220

21mm

Sky-Dweller

72400

20mm

Milgauss

77200

20mm

Explorer 39

77210

21mm

Explorer II

71200

20mm

Air-King 40

78200-78203-78208-78209-79201-79205

20mm

GMT-Master II

78210-78211-78218-78219

21mm

Yacht-Master II

78590-78593-78595-78596-78598-78599

20mm

Cosmograph Daytona

78740-78743-78750-78753

17 mm

Yacht-Master 35

78763-78800

20mm

Yacht-Master 40

97200

20mm

Submariner

97200-97203-97208-97209

20mm

Submariner Date

97400

20mm

Sea-Dweller 40

97220-97223

22mm

Sea-Dweller 43

98210

21mm

Deepsea

98220

22mm

Deepsea

 Rolex bracelets are identifiable by their distinct codes. These codes reveal the design and material used for each bracelet, with the ending number in the code indicating the material used:

  • 0 = Steel or 904L Oystersteel
  • 1 = Everose Gold & Steel
  • 3 = Yellow Gold & Steel
  • 5 = Rose Gold
  • 6 = Platinum
  • 8 = Yellow Gold
  • 9 = White Gold

Oyster Bracelet Clasps

Rolex equips the Oyster bracelet with a range of clasps engineered to provide maximum security and comfort. The clasp types vary depending on the specific watch model:

Rolex Watch Model

Oyster Bracelet Clasp Type

Oyster Perpetual

Oysterclasp

Datejust

Folding Oysterclasp Easylink 5mm extension system

Milgauss

Folding Oysterclasp Easylink 5mm extension system

Air-King

Folding Oysterclasp Easylink 5mm extension system

Sky-Dweller

Folding Oysterclasp Easylink 5mm extension system

GMT-Master II

Folding Oysterlock clasp with Easylink 

Daytona

Folding Oysterlock clasp with Easylink 

Yacht-Master

Folding Oysterlock clasp with Easylink 

Yacht-Master II

Folding Oysterlock clasp with Easylink 

Explorer I

Folding Oysterlock clasp with Easylink 

Explorer II

Folding Oysterlock clasp with Easylink 

Submariner

Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Glidelock 

Sea-Dweller

Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Glidelock and Fliplock

Deepsea

Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Glidelock and Fliplock

The Easylink extension available on many models facilitates a simple adjustment of the bracelet length by 5mm without needing tools. This makes it ideal for those whose wrist size changes throughout the day. Meanwhile, exclusive features like the Glidelock clasp allow for precise micro-adjustments, which are particularly beneficial for divers wearing wetsuits. At ElegantSwiss, we offer Rolex timepieces with these sophisticated features, ensuring a perfect fit and comfort for all our clients.

The Rolex Jubilee Bracelet

Celebrating Rolex's 40th anniversary, the Jubilee bracelet, introduced in 1945, has since gained legendary status. It is known for its dressy, elegant appeal and features a five-piece semicircular link design. This bracelet brings a luxurious feel and adds panache to any Rolex, making it a collector's favorite.

Jubilee Link Design

  • 1950s – 1970s: Folded or oval links (Swiss/Mexican models)
  • 1970s – 2000s: Swiss-made "D-link" design with improved robustness
  • 2000s – Present: Solid links for durability and seamless integration

Jubilee Bracelet Codes and Watch Models

Jubilee Bracelet Code

Bracelet End Link Width

Rolex Watch Model

63130-63131-63133

13mm

Lady-Datejust 26

63345-63348-63341

14mm

Lady-Datejust 28

63160-63161-63163-64169

16mm

Datejust 31

63600-63601-63603-63608-62803-62800

20mm

Datejust 36

62613

21mm

Datejust 41

69200

20mm

GMT-Master II

The Rolex President Bracelet

Introduced in 1956 for the Day-Date, the President bracelet epitomizes Rolex's prestige. Exclusively crafted from precious metals like gold and platinum, this bracelet's smooth elegant and sophisticated design symbolizes success. The President bracelet is a true design marvel, featuring a three-piece semicircular link arrangement.

President Bracelet Codes and Watch Models

President Bracelet Code

Bracelet End Link Width

Rolex Watch Model

83135-83136-83138-83139

13mm

Lady-Datejust 26

83345-83346-83348

14mm

Lady-Datejust 28

83165-83168-83169-83369-83368-83365-84166-84168

16mm

Datejust 31

83205-83206-83208-83209-83408-83405-83409-84206-84208-84209

20mm

Day-Date 36

83415-83416-83418-83419

21mm

Day-Date 40

83215-83216-83218-83219

21mm

Day-Date II

The President bracelet features a hidden clasp, offering a sleek, seamless appearance. Its middle links are polished, while the outer links are brushed, providing a striking contrast. The bracelet's links are broader and more comfortable, ensuring an easy fit on the wrist. ElegantSwiss proudly offers these luxurious watches, allowing you to experience the finest Swiss watchmaking.

The Rolex Oysterflex Bracelet

The Rolex Oysterflex bracelet represents a hybrid design, merging metal's robustness with rubber's softness and flexibility. This innovative design combines top-performing elastomer with a metal core for enhanced durability and strength. The bracelet is paired with a secure, folding Oysterlock clasp, ensuring a firm and comfortable fit.

The Oysterflex bracelet is ideal for activewear, offering versatility and comfort. It complements sporty Rolex models like the Yacht-Master and Daytona, combining ruggedness with elegance. Each bracelet is lined with flexible titanium and nickel blades, ensuring durability while maintaining style.

Watch Model

Bracelet Width

 

Yacht-Master 40

20mm

 

Daytona

20mm

 

 

The Rolex Integrated Bracelet

Rolex integrated bracelets are designed to seamlessly integrate into the watch case, creating a continuous, fluid line from the lugs to the wrist. Unlike traditional bracelets that attach to lugs via spring bars, integrated bracelets are built directly into the case, offering a streamlined, cohesive look. These bracelets are typically found on models like the Oysterquartz, providing a modern, futuristic design with enhanced comfort.

The integrated bracelet design improves comfort by minimizing gaps between the wrist and the watch, offering a snug, firm fit. This sophisticated design combines style and functionality, making it a standout feature in Rolex's collection. 

Oysterquartz Bracelet Codes, Style, and Watch Model

Oysterquartz Bracelet Code

Style

Rolex Watch Model

17010-17000B

Steel Oyster

Oysterquartz Datejust

17013-17013B

Two-Tone Jubilee

Oysterquartz Datejust

19018- 19028

Yellow Gold President

Oysterquartz Day-Date

19019

White Gold President

Oysterquartz Day-Date

The Pearlmaster Bracelet

The Pearlmaster bracelet offers a lavish feel, often found on Rolex's high-end, gem-set watches. Crafted from precious metals such as yellow, white, or Everose gold, the bracelet is adorned with stunning diamonds and other precious gems, adding a sophisticated touch. The bracelet features rounded five-piece links, creating a softer, more opulent feel.

The Pearlmaster bracelet also boasts intricate finishes, with polished center links and brushed outer links providing a striking contrast. With a concealed clasp, it offers a sleek and seamless look, elevating the elegance and luxury appeal of Rolex's finest timepieces.

Pearlmaster Bracelet Codes, End Link Size, and Watch Model

Pearlmaster Bracelet Code

Bracelet End Link Width

Rolex Watch Model

72845-72848-72849

17mm

Pearlmaster 34

44745-42745-42749

20mm

Pearlmaster 39

72746 -72748- 72748-74746

20mm

Day-Date "Special Edition" Masterpiece

The Rolex Leather Strap

Though primarily known for their metal straps, Rolex has crafted some stunning leather straps. Known for their elegance, finesse, and aesthetic appeal, Rolex leather straps are made from high-quality, durable leather. These straps are available in various colors, including black, brown, and blue, to complement different Rolex models.

Rolex leather straps feature robust construction with a reinforced inner layer for strength and support. Paired with a signature folding clasp, they offer a secure and adjustable fit. Leather straps provide a classic, understated look for those seeking sophistication and timeless style.

Early Rolex Models with Leather Straps:

  • Rolex Datejust (1945): The Datejust was available with leather straps alongside metal bracelets, making it a popular choice for those seeking a dressier option.
  • Rolex Oyster Perpetual: Early models of the Oyster Perpetual were also offered with leather straps, catering to those who preferred a formal appearance.

Introduction of Leather Straps in Later Stages:

Over time, Rolex shifted away from leather straps and moved toward metal bracelets. However, leather straps remained available on select models, including the Rolex Day-Date (1956) and the Rolex Cellini Collection (1960s onward), which has always featured leather straps for its more formal, elegant designs.

Conclusion

Rolex bracelets have always been iconic, offering exceptional craftsmanship, luxury, and functionality. Whether it's the robust Oyster bracelet, the elegant Jubilee, or the sophisticated President, each bracelet encapsulates Rolex's rich legacy of Swiss watchmaking. These bracelets not only enhance the beauty of the watch but also provide unmatched comfort and durability.

If you have any questions or concerns regarding the bracelets you're considering, please don’t hesitate to reach out. Our team is here to assist you in making a well-informed and confident decision. If you're interested in exploring more options, we invite you to browse our curated collection and find the perfect watch to enhance your watch collection. 

Leading the way in the luxury watch and jewelry industry, ElegantSwiss is a retailer of pre-owned luxury Swiss watches. We have been in the retail and wholesale trade since 1998. We are proud of the level of success we achieved, which would not be possible without our loyal clientele. We are committed to earning your trust and satisfaction. Located in the world famous Diamond District of New York City, for over two generations we provided and continue to provide knowledgeable service to thousands of satisfied customers. We handle all inquiries with utmost care and in the shortest time possible.